J-M Seleque Solessence Extra Brut
This wine has an unusually fine mousse and terrific elegance, fruit and stony salinity. This is S l que’s flagship wine, representing nearly half of the total house production; it also roughly mirrors the house plantations, originating in all seven communes where Jean-Marc grows vines. A blend of 50% Chardonnay, 40% Meunier and 10% Pinot Noir, sourced from the domaine’s younger vines, which average 40 years of age (that, it must be said, would constitute the old vine selection for most Champagne properties!) Half the blend is reserve wine, which is a perpetual reserve aged in barrel. The base wine is made predominately in steel; aged on its lees for 20 months. The main non-vintage cuv e from this young producer who is based just south of pernay is dry in the house style, giving the tense and finely structured fruit plenty of space to speak. This is a tightly wrought Champagne but one with such great white- and citrus-fruit flavors that it is ready to drink. Based on the 2018 vintage and disgorged in November 2020 with two grams per liter dosage, S l que’s latest NV Extra Brut Solessence is showing very well, bursting with aromas of white flowers, pear, crisp stone fruits and almond paste. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it’s lively and saline, with a pillowy mousse and chalky grip on the finish. Kumquat, golden raisin and black currant flavors are layered with firm acidity and a soft, creamy mousse in this lightly toasty Champagne, with a nut-tinged finish. Disgorged October 2018. Drink now through 2022.