Domaine Robert-Denogent Vire-Clesse En Chatelaine 2017

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The 2017 Vir -Cless En Ch telaine comes from old Chardonnay muscat vines and sees a year’s levage in cement. Bursting with aromas of orange rind, citrus blossom and musky peach, it’s medium to full-bodied, concentrated and muscular, with good tension at the core and an aromatic finish. Readers who appreciate the wines of this distinctive appellation will find much to admire. Not surprisingly there are whiffs of muscat elements present on the petrol, citrus zest and spicy aromas. The dense, powerful and very serious middle weight flavors possess excellent, indeed almost painful, intensity on the beautifully persistent finish. This isn’t an elegant wine; indeed it flirts with rusticity but like the La Croix, it is impressive in its fashion.

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